Whether through observation or application, most of us are aware of digital printing as a tool for product development and rapid prototyping of textiles, apparel, and other sewn products. As we look toward 2001, how is digital printing evolving for our industry and how can we begin to anticipate and prepare for changes? At [TC]2 we have been watching this evolution for a number of years and acting as a catalyst where it seems appropriate. At the same time, we are currently taking a few steps back in order to examine the broader implications of digital technology (including digital printing) in order to gain an understanding of the digital supply chain that is developing. As we begin to address current trends in digital printing, it may be helpful to view these trends in the context of this new supply chain.

What do I mean by ‘the digital supply chain’? The digital supply chain refers to the application of technology for the purpose of keeping the product in digital form through product development and manufacturing in order to maximize flexibility and minimize risk. In other words, as long as you can keep your product in digital form, the easier it will be to make quick adjustments in order to respond to changing trends in the market place or individual consumer preferences. This digital supply chain relies on CAD technology for development, digital simulation for evaluation, marketing and sales, and digital technology for sampling and production.

Digital printing is one of many enabling technologies with respect to this vision. Despite some limitations in terms of color, speed, and print quality, the value of digital printing has been recognized and technology adopters are seeing it’s impact for sampling, sales, and merchandising. However, despite great interest, the barriers to technology adoption seem to have greater impact at the production level. This is particularly true within the sewn products industry where the creation of a continuous process is key for successful integration with manufacturing. The ideal scenario involves the ability to print the parts, fix, cut, and assemble in a continuous manner. While elements of this process are in existence today, the creation of a seamless system is yet to be demonstrated in any real sense.

On the positive side, there is plenty of evidence to suggest there will continue to be technological advances to support the shift from vision to reality. We can expect to see ongoing emphasis on digital printing technology with higher output capacity and greater reliability. Look to companies including Stork, Mimaki, MacDermid Colorspan, Zimmer, and DPS to be leaders in this area. Their current offerings will continue to support sampling and may also enable small-scale production scenarios and/or the formation of start-ups offering unique product. In addition to currently available equipment, during 2001 we can watch for new technology introductions by companies including Mimaki and DPS.

Despite perceived limitations we are already beginning to see the formation of new companies making use of today’s technology for sampling services and small-scale production (see, Digital Printing Alchemy). These are companies with a unique offering, a high value product, or novel business concept. They are filling orders using currently available equipment and are not afraid to tinker and experiment in order to create a system that works. Depending on the scale of such a business, multiple machines could be used to address speed limitations and meet production demands as business grows. This idea is not so far removed from the weaving environment, where multiple looms are used to weave patterns for one or more customers. It is not an original idea, but certainly one deserving of consideration as we await the arrival of the ‘ultimate’ machine.

As printing technology advances, progress must and will be supported by software and ink chemistry improvements from CAD vendors and chemistry suppliers. These efforts are currently focused on improving color output and print quality for sampling. Any developments will certainly be applied to the production environment as necessary. In this area, the important trend to follow is the development of pigment systems or alternative chemistry for textiles. Pigment systems have not been easily adapted for the textile inkjet environment and early introductions have been criticized for color brilliance and fastness. However, the potential market for jettable pigments is large and therefore, there is considerable motivation to overcome obstacles. A number of suppliers currently offer pigments and they continue to work at the R&D level to improve their systems.

For the sewn products industry, the pigment trend is significant for a couple of reasons. In contrast to dye based systems in which dye class must be matched with fiber type, pigments are substrate independent. They can be used for printing a wide range of fibers and fabrics including blends. This will have a great deal of interest for producers of home furnishings, bed linens, and certain apparel products. In addition, pigments and alternative chemistry that do not require steam fixation will simplify the path between printing and cutting. A dry fixation unit could potentially be mounted between a printer and single-ply cutting unit. In contrast, the steaming process required by dye-based systems presents a barrier to integration. Steaming requires a separate process and may cause changes in dimension and shape that make part recognition more difficult during the cutting procedure.

With respect to system integration, vendors such as Lectra Systems are beginning to understand and work with development partners toward the continuous vision I’ve described. Critical to integration is the ability to connect the digital elements. For example, the print design must be linked with the garment or piece shape in the form of a marker for printing and cutting. The cutter must then have the ability to recognize the pieces and cut them accurately once printing and fixation have taken place. Throughout the process color must be defined, communicated, and controlled for accurate and predictable output. As chemistry improves and more production orientated printing technology becomes available, the feasibility of linking these parts together has improved and we are beginning to witness the developments.

If we take an even broader look at the digital supply chain we can also see the development of digital systems that support the overall vision of flexible/on-demand manufacturing. Web-enabled data management tools and made-to-order CAD systems help enable the customer to define their product features and enable the manufacturer to anticipate, receive, and track orders through manufacturing. The combination of technology and software tools is paving the way toward mass customization and is critical to the introduction and growth of e-commerce for digitally printed product.

As we look toward 2001 there are exciting possibilities unfolding. Digital printing is an emerging technology and process within the new supply chain. As adopters of this technology, most of us will face challenges and at times become frustrated by limitations that remain. Even so, it is important to begin the learning process today. For some, learning can start on a small scale with the purchase of a desktop printer such as the Epson 3000 and some textile specific inks. Others may choose to invest more heavily in a wide format device and textile specific software for sampling. Whatever the strategy, it is important to remember that companies are making it happen today on a variety of levels, despite the barriers. Those who adapt and adopt early on will be the most prepared for the changes and opportunities to come.

Kerry Maguire King is a digital print designer working in the Research and Development area of [TC]2. She has ongoing interests in both apparel and textile design and the application of CAD technology to these fields. Kerry can be reached at kmaguir@tc2.com.