What are the most important qualities of a CAD pattern service?
The skill level of the pattern makers that will be working on your patterns is the most important. How many years of experience have they had of pattern making, grading and marker making? How skilled are they using the system? It is important to remember that the CAD system is nothing more than a tool used in pattern making. The quality of the pattern work is directly related to the skill level of the pattern maker. Whenever possible, make an appointment to meet with the pattern service at their place of business. You can evaluate them much better if you can see exactly what they do and the type of system they use. Ask for a quick demo.
How does the type of software used affect my decision?
It depends on what your needs are. Some systems support computer cutters, some only specific types of cutters. If you plan on hand cutting only, it does not matter what software system is used. If you plan on using a computer cutter, you must use a service that uses a system compatible to that type of cutter. Some systems are compatible to most computer cutters. Of course, some software programs are more sophisticated than others and are capable of creating patterns with more accuracy and intricacy. If you have specific details you would like incorporated to your patterns, be sure to ask the service specifically what they are capable of doing.
What information do I need to give them?
The more information the better. Patterns should be marked with all pertinent information. A sample of the garment is preferred. Manufacturers will also suggest or require certain specifications on patterns and markers. The seam allowance and the notch placement are examples of differences required between manufacturers.
If you are requesting grading, you will need to supply size specifications. Each retailer you are selling to may have different size spec requirements. If you do not know exactly what size spec to use, ask for assistance from the pattern service. Be sure the service you select is able to accommodate your specific needs. The type of fabric used is necessary information also. If possible a sample of the fabric should be part of the package sent to the pattern service.
How can I protect my privacy and patterns from being used for other clients of the service?
Ask if they will be willing to sign a Confidentiality Agreement. It is also a good idea to check references. Make sure you let them know what you want kept confidential. Some companies do not want services to mention or advertise that they are doing work for them.
What can I expect to pay for CAD Pattern Services?
You can expect to pay more for a CAD Service then you would a pattern maker that does pattern work by hand. Obviously it is more expensive to run a CAD system. For this reason, you must evaluate whether it is cost effective to use a CAD service. If your quantities for production are less then 300 units per style, it may not be affordable. Get a bid for the work requested before giving the go ahead. Most services will require a down payment with balance due at completion. Make sure to ask what the terms are. There are usually exclusions and qualifications to the bid, such as; it does not include shipping and handling costs, pattern changes, marker width changes or additional markers. Ask for the cost of additional printouts of pattern pieces or markers.
What are the cost benefits of using a CAD Pattern Service?
The cost benefits come from the accuracy and efficiency of a computer. Fabric is usually the most costly portion of a garment. Computer made markers can optimize fabric utilization. This information is useful for accurate costing. Markers are consistent, and they can be stored on disk for future use. Patterns can be easily altered once in the system. New styles can be created from the existing patterns. This is less costly then having to start fresh. If markers are computer cut, the accuracy continues. The sewing process is more efficient and the finished garment is a higher quality.
How much time should I allow for the CAD Pattern Service to complete my project?
Plan ahead! Be sure to give enough time to the CAD service to so that you can proof the patterns with your production facility before manufacturing the entire cut request. This will catch any problems with the pattern fit and fine tune the pattern for the most efficient production. Each service has its busy times when it will take more time to get started on your project. Be sure to ask for a completion date. If you have a date when you need to have things done, be sure to indicate that. It is important for the service to be flexible and to be able to handle emergencies.
What should I expect to be included in the bid?
Typically, a service should provide the cost of pattern making, grading, and marker making for each style. Included with that price could be a style sheet, which lists the pieces and amounts of each piece per style, a spec sheet of finished pattern measurements, and perhaps a drawing of the garment. A copy of the patterns and a nested set of the patterns should also be sent to you for final approval and or future reference.
How should I expect the marker to be sent to the manufacturer?
The pattern service should be able to send them directly to your manufacturer. They may request the use of your shipping account number, or you may request that they use it, especially if you have a discount with your shipper.