by [TC]²
Novelty Yarns – A Unique Supply Chain Advantage
By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., writer/reporter for [TC]²
December, 2005
This article was previously published in
“The Magazine – Apparel Sourcing Show,” Guatemala
The passing of CAFTA has introduced a myriad of opportunities and challenges to textile and apparel manufacturers in Central America. They now have the opportunity to be much more than a provider of labor. In close proximity to the U.S., one of the world’s largest consumers, speed to market has been a much touted advantage. Unfortunately, with China developing “mega ships” and talk of weekly “polar flights,” the advantage of speeding product to market might be fleeting. Why not develop unique specialized products? This might just be the advantage they’ve been looking for. Checkout the aesthetically beautiful and high performance yarns available in the Northern Hemisphere. No doubt, novelty yarns are more expensive, but just a touch can change a commodity good into a coveted fashion-forward product.
A touch of a heather or mélange yarn adds interest to the most basic fabric construction. A mélange yarn is produced by blending 4-5 different colored fibers. The blending of multicolored fibers, creates almost a space dyed effect but for cheaper. The mélange yarn is shown below in a single jersey construction. The intricacy of the yarn makes the fabric appear as if sprinkled with intricate combinations of tuck stitches. For added zest, slubs can be added.
Melange Yarn in a Single Jersey Construction
Courtesy of Tuscarora Yarns, Inc.
Often two different colored yarns are plied together to create a barber pole effect. A process known as a mock twist can create a similar effect. To produce a mock twist yarn, two rovings are combined at the spinning frame. A mock twist yarn is less expensive to produce than a plied yarn.
Knit Fabric Using Mock Twist Yarns
Courtesy of Tuscarora Yarns, Inc.
Recently, a 100% cotton heather yarn with a new twist was developed. The new heather effect is created by blending regular cotton with treated cotton. The treated cotton dyes deeper and quicker than the untreated cotton and on an environmentally friendly note, can be dyed without using any salt or soda ash. The yarn also dyes in half the time and at lower temperatures than regular cotton and there is less unfixed dye stuff, therefore less dye going down the drain. Pro Tura translates from Latin as “special cotton.”
In keeping with the trendy distressed look, striped patterns have been created with Pro Tura yarns. The depth of color depends on the amount of treated cotton in the yarn. Subtle shade gradations are achieved by using yarns consisting of varying amounts of treated cotton. You can find this fabric and similar ones throughout the Lands’ End catalogue.
Weathered Stripes
Courtesy of Clovertex
Soft and slightly distressed lightweight woven fabrics have been developed for the shirting and sheeting markets.
Soft Distressed Wovens Constructed with Pro Tura Yarns
Courtesy of Clovertex
Customers include Nike, Jockey, Polo and more. A major advantage is that apparel companies no longer have to play the “guessing game.” Dyeing is done in garment form, therefore, shirts can be pre-made and dyed once they know what colors are selling well. Apparel companies can also practice “speed to replenish.” By having the shirts on-hand, they don’t have to dip back into the supply chain to the yarn stage - scurrying around to get the yarn dyed and fabric knit, cut and sewn. In addition, companies can garment dye as few as 12 shirts, whereas yarn dyeing requires huge minimums.
Our industry is fortunate to have an array of stunning high-end novelty silk yarns available. The impressive line-up includes heavyweight rovings, boucles, fur yarns, and much more. Although more expensive, just a little packs a powerful punch!
100% Silk Novelty Yarns
Courtesy of Bishop & Co. Inc. and Hasegawa Yarns
There are a few companies offering handpainted novelty yarns. These yarns are a total show stopper, and don’t let the “handpainted” part scare you. One owner says “We have no maximum and will dye any order that comes in, no matter how large.”
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Froth |
Jumbo Loop |
Thick and Thin Glitter Sachet Lamb’s Pride
Courtesy of Cherry Tree Hill
For a totally different look, check out brightly colored recycled silk yarns. These rustic beauties consist of two materials- old saris and remnant fabrics from industrial weaving. Weft and warp yarns are manually pulled out, cut and blended. The fibers are hand spun into bright multicolored chunky yarns. Yarns are all random making no two cones alike.
Yarns with a sparkle can transform a garment. Depending on the starting material and the manufacturing process the fibers can produce a number of extraordinary effects - including luminescent, iridescent, holographic and much more. Offered in a wide range of colors, deniers and staple lengths, these aesthetically beautiful and high-performing fibers are being used in everything from apparel to automobile upholstery.
The fiber produces a very different looking yarn from that of its close counterpart - continuous filament Lurex®. Fibers can be blended with almost any other fiber to produce a gamut of effects - from soft and subtle to radiant and bold. The fibers are also incredibly soft.
Examples of Glitter Fibers
Courtesy Meadowbrook Inventions, Inc.
There are some fibers that make the most basic spun yarn a novelty- animal hair being one of them. The industry is fortunate to have a few custom wool spinners in North America. Their inventory consist of only fibers no yarns, allowing them to make yarn per the customer’s request.
Fibers are blended and spun into 100% alpaca, merino, cashmere and mohair yarns. To beef-up performance or enhance aesthetic properties, animal fibers can be blended with other fibers such as silk, polyester or Lycra®.
100% Cashmere Yarns
Courtesy of Amtex Yarns
Fiber producers are manufacturing a range of high performance fibers.
Natural and synthetic fibers are being engineered to maximize their positive attributes and at the same time, mimic the desirable characteristics of other fibers.
INVISTA is pursuing the mega-trend of well-being. Although the trend has been around for a while, it has not been tapped into by apparel manufacturers. The customers’ need to feel good can be seen in the explosion of stores offering feel good products, such as bath salts, body lotions and scents. Apparel being close to the skin is ideal for the delivery of well-being benefits. INVISTA is producing fibers microencapsulated with nurturing ingredients such as vitamin E and aloe are being produced. The garments constructed with these fibers can deliver benefits to the wearer in excess of 25 washings.
Wellman, Inc has recently introduced a Holofiber®. The Holofiber® is a responsive textile that interacts with the human body to increase oxygen levels, resulting in increased strength, energy and accelerated muscle recovery. Holofiber® is a PET based synthetic fiber that contains an optical responsive material. The Holofiber® material modifies the spectrum of visible and invisible light, interacting and altering certain wavelengths into energy. The energy is transmitted to the body to better oxygenate the body’s cells. Yarns will be utilized in many different end uses including hosiery, bandages, gloves, shoe linings, travel apparel, sleeping bags and much more.
Manufacturing recycled fiber is not a new process but one which is taking on increasing importance. Recycled fibers are produced from plastic bottle containers. Although more expensive than polyester, the environmental story is a good one, and not just in theory. Consumption of bottled water alone is growing exponentially. Bottled water is the single largest growth area among all beverages, including alcohol, juices and soft drinks. The number of water bottles sold jumped from 3.3 billion in 1997 to 15 billion in 2002 (Llanos).
Recycled fibers are produced from either 100% ‘bottle flake’ or ‘bottle flake’ rich recycled fibers. Yarn made from recycled fibers is widely used in contract upholstery, carpet and wall coverings - applications in which customers are willing to pay a little more for a quality product and to pitch-in to help the environment.
Cotton Incorporated’s research staff in Cary, North Carolina, has introduced some impressive developments. A wrinkle-resistant durable press (DP) finish known as Tough Cotton™ “enables an all-cotton fabric to look good and last longer, while maintaining a smooth appearance after home laundering.”
Cotton Incorporated has also introduced a new technology that delivers exceptional wicking performance while maintaining the look, feel and comfort of cotton. Using the technology, both Phillips Van Heusen’s Izod Retail division and Champion are launching new clothing lines.
Other developments that enhance the performance of the fiber include the incorporation of silver and copper to produce antimicrobial properties and control odor; the addition of ‘add-ons’ that impart insect repellent and flame retardant properties; and combining PTFE (tetrafluoroethylene, a fluorocarbon resin) with PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) to impart soil release and stain resistance properties and a soft hand.
Taking advantage of the array of novelty yarns available in the Northern Hemisphere could lead to the development of unique fashion-forward products that can’t be easily knocked off. It just might be the supply chain advantage your company could be looking for!
Acknowledgements
Anni Kristensen, Himalaya Yarns, Cochester, VT.
Cheryl Potter, Cherry Tree Hill Yarn, Barton, VT
Jeff Burton, Bishop & Co. Inc., East Providence, RI
Kentaro Mishima, Hasegawa Corporation. Japan
Linda Kearns, Communications and Marketing Research Director, INVISTA, Wilmington, DE.
Nik Casstevens, Director, Sales and Product Development, Palmetto Synthetics, Kingstree, SC.
Peter Hegarty, President, Tuscarora Yarns, Inc.
Robert Kirkwood, Technical Director, INVISTA, Wilmington, DE.
Roberta M. Ruschmann, Vice President, Meadowbrook Inventions, Inc., Bernardsville, NJ.
Robin Merlo, Director Public Relations, Cotton Incorporated
Tom McCall, New Business Director, Clovertex
Zein Dawood, Amtex Yarn Manufacturing Inc., Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
References
Joseph, Marjory. Introductory Textile Science. 5th ed. CBS College Publishing,
1986.
Miguel Llanos, Reporter MSNBC, Plastic Bottles Pile up as Mountains of Waste: Americans’ Thirst for Portable Water is Behind Drop in Recycling Rate.
March 3, 2005.
December 2005