Nonwoven Fabrics in Fashion Apparel

By Dr. Kim Anderson, Writer/Reporter for [TC]²

When we think of textile fabrics most of us associate them with the traditional classifications - woven, knit, braided and tufted structures. We would be remiss to leave nonwoven fabrics out of the pantheon of textiles. Unlike traditional fabric-forming processes, in which fibers are first made into yarns, a nonwoven material is formed directly from fibers. Nonwoven materials offer a number of advantages over traditional fabrics, cost savings being the most obvious. In recent years the nonwoven industry has grown exponentially, offering a wide variety of products to many diverse markets. However, nonwoven fabrics possess inherent characteristics that have caused them to be considered “off limits” in some applications. Recent research and development has focused on improving the properties of nonwoven fabrics. Today, nonwovens are creeping into some rather unexpected markets. This unconventional fabric is finding a niche in fashion apparel.

Contrary to what we might expect, nonwoven fabrics are some of the oldest and simplest textile structures, felt being a classic example. The first well documented discovery of felt dates back circa 3500-3000 BC. Felt was made from various animal hairs that were pressed together. The fabric was primarily used for protective clothing and to make tents for shelter. Today, nonwoven fabrics are utilized in a diverse product mix. Ongoing research and development is quickly enlarging the already extensive list of end uses. In fact, recent nonwoven developments in Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill , NC were the driving force for the area's number two spot on Forbes Magazine's list of Best Places for Business and Careers.

To form a nonwoven fabric a web is made and then bonded to impart strength. Nonwoven fabrics can be formed from either a one-step or two-step process. In the one-step process web formation and bonding take place continuously. The spunbond and melt blown processes are categorized as one-step. In the spunbond process thermoplastic fibers are extruded through a spinneret and laid down onto a conveyor belt to form a web. The web is then bonded by passing it between two calendar rollers. The melt blown process is similar to the spunbond process. In the melt blown process the thermoplastic fibers are blown onto a collector screen to form a web. Bonding is the result of a combination of fibers sticking together and entangling.

In the two-step process, a web is formed and then bonded by a separate process. The web can be formed by one of three methods - dry laid, air laid or wet laid. Dry, air or wet refers to the mechanism that configures the fibers into a sheet or web. Most webs are quite fragile. To impart strength to the web it is bonded by either an application of an adhesive, thermal exposure, needlepunching, hydroentanglement (spunlace) or stitchbonding.

Nonwovens are used extensively in the apparel industry for interlinings, clothing and glove insulation, bra and shoulder padding, handbag components and shoe components. However, other than the ubiquitous Ultrasuede®, nonwoven fabrics have been confined to a utilitarian role. In the late 1960's there were a few attempts to market disposable dresses but with little success. Recent research has resulted in fabrics with better drape, hand, durability, and stretch and recovery. These enhanced characteristics have compelled some to push aside the prejudices associated with this unconventional fabric and seek new unexpected venues. Of course the naysayers have loudly objected, but fortunately to no avail.  NC State College of Textiles located in Raleigh, NC and Canesis Network Ltd an innovative company headquartered in New Zealand, are boldly pushing the limits.

NC State College of Textiles

Late last spring Dr. Cindy Istook, an Associate Professor at NCSU College of Textiles and Genevieve Garland, a Ph.D. student and instructor also at the NCSU College of Textiles were intrigued by some nonwoven fabrics they saw lying around. Quickly, ideas for these nontraditional fabrics began to flourish. Eventually eliciting internal interest, Istook was able to jump start the project. She contacted Freudenberg Nonwovens, LP, the producers of the nonwoven fabrics, and a variety of exciting projects ensued.

Under the direction of Dr. Istook and the assistance of Ms.Garland, graduate and undergraduate students designed a variety of stylish garments and accessories, constructed with nonwoven fabric. All garments were made with at least 95% nonwovens. Fabrics were graciously donated by Novolon Dimensional Fabrics, a division of Freudenberg Nonwovens, LP. They were composed of polyester, polypropylene; some had small amounts of cotton. Garland pointed out that the fabric was “similar to an expensive leather, but worlds cheaper and lighter weight”. Automatic cutters and industrial sewing machines were used - no problems were encountered. The drape of the fabric was reported to be fairly good and improved after finishing.

To showcase the work, a fashion show was held at the opening dinner of The 13th National Textile Center Forum and the 84th Textile Institute Annual World Conference, in Raleigh, NC on March 22. The garments were designed to target the 18-25 year old urban sector, since it was assumed that they would be more likely to embrace this unconventional fabric and its unique features.

Target Customer - Young Urban

Unlike woven and knit fabrics, nonwovens do not ravel; therefore, seams do not need to be surged, making it easy to incorporate shaped hemlines into the garment design. Seams within the garments also do not require finishing.

Shaped Hem Lines

In addition to the garments, students made an array of accessories, including pins, hats, belts and handbags.

Nonwoven Accessories -Hat and Pin

To further challenge the notion that nonwoven fabrics are disposable or primarily suited to utilitarian products, Istook proposed making a wedding ensemble. Originally, Istook and Garland were going to collaborate on the project, however, because of conflicting schedules and Istook's eagerness to start bringing her ideas to fruition, “I was so excited … I just had to work on the ideas moving around in my head,” they decided to work independently. The wedding gowns they created are spectacular, each targeted to a very different customer. As Istook points out, “The garments are so very different and they provide an example of the range of opportunity these unique fabrics have.”

Wedding Dress by Dr. Cindy Istook	Wedding Dress by Genevieve Garland

Of course, before the garments hit the stores, a number of performance and marketing issues would have to be addressed. Garland noted that although the garments made it through two rigorous fashion shows without any sign of wear and tear, the durability to washing would need to be tested. Hook and eyes and zippers were used to close the garments. Additional testing to evaluate the endurance of these closures, as well as the use of buttons, would need to be examined. The comfort of a nonwoven garment after extended wear would need to be evaluated. Market studies investigating the customer's willingness to accept this unconditional fabric and its unique features, such as unfinished edges, would need to be undertaken.

Dr. Istook plans to follow-up this exciting project with additional ones, “We still have many ideas to explore…and lots of interest from students who want the opportunity to be involved in a unique design project” …and who could blame them!

Canesis Network Ltd

Canesis was founded in 1961 by the Wool Research Organization of New Zealand (WRONZ). Canesis's main objective is to promote the wool industry through internal research and providing product development services to the wool and textile industry. The impetus for pursuing research in the field of nonwoven fashion apparel was to dispel the long held perception that wool apparel is expensive and created to appeal to the more mature and affluent customer. The major benefit of a nonwoven fabric is that it is comparably cheaper than a woven or a knit. The nonwoven process is about five times faster and up to 30% cheaper than conventional wool fabric production.

For the last three years the nonwoven team at Canesis has concentrated on developing lightweight apparel fabrics with greater stretch and recovery. Researchers have recently designed a special collection of beautiful 100% wool and wool rich nonwoven fabrics. Fabrics with special finishes in classic colorations were used to produce a collection of very hip, yet elegant, garments. Some fabrics undergo additional processes to create a three dimensional patterning effect.

Examples of Garments Constructed out of Nonwoven Wool and Wool Rich Fabrics by Canesis Network Ltd.

There appears to be a wonderful unique opportunity in the area of nonwoven fashion apparel. Current research, concentrated on improving the physical characteristics of nonwoven fabrics, along with creative people unwilling to settle with tradition, might succeed in making a pipe dream a reality.

Acknowledgements

Barbara Vaile, Communication Services Manager, Canesis Network Ltd. Christchurch, New Zealand.

Cindy Istook, Ph.D., Associate Professor, North Carolina State University College of Textiles.

Emily Parker Director, of College Relations, North Carolina State University College of Textiles.

Genevieve Garland, Ph.D. Student and Instructor, North Carolina State University College of Textiles.

Mike Pittman, Photographer of photographs contributed by North Carolina State University College of Textiles.

References

American Apparel Manufactures Association, Inc. Non-Wovens in the Apparel Industry: Trend or Fad, 1967.

Forbes. Threadbare No More. May 23, 2005.

John R. Starr, Inc. The Nonwoven Fabrics Handbook. INDA Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, 1992.

Schoeser, Mary. World Textiles A Concise History. 2003.

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