by [TC]²
There’s a New Technology in Town: Laser Engraving
By Kim Anderson, Ph.D., writer/reporter for [TC]²
October 2006
The classic jean is strong, durable, comfortable and oh-so fashionable. Manufacturers are keeping this classic on the fashion radar by stoning, icing, burning and drilling the beloved jean to create novel and unique effects. There’s a new technology that is producing some amazing looks on denim. With the popularity of special effects surging, it’s a good time to check-out laser engraving.
Classic denim is constructed with a blue indigo warp and an undyed weft. Indigo, originally derived from plants, is probably the oldest colorant used to dye textiles. Indigo has also been thought to remedy an eclectic list of ailments including cancer, depression and even rabies.
Today, indigo is a synthetically produced vat dye that is bound to the fabric by mechanical forces rather than chemical. Unlike other vat dyes, indigo has very little affinity to cotton—making it perfectly suited for wash-down treatments.
The laser technology utilizes a beam of light, to produce a non-contact mark on the denim fabric. When engraving denim, the laser burns away the indigo dye to produce a worn look.
TechnoLines, LLC is a company dedicated to developing and commercializing what it calls “laser scribing.” Having eighteen patents to its credit, TechnoLines is on the forefront of this exciting technology. Darryl J. Costin, CEO of TechnoLines, explains the benefits of laser engraving.
Costin points out that in hand sanding a tremendous amount of dust is generated which can be detrimental to worker’s health. In the laser engraving process air contaminants are contained. The engraving process can effectively mimic hand processes to create whiskers and worn areas with precision and consistency.
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Examples of whiskers and wash down appearance obtained from laser engraving |
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Designs can be strategically placed anywhere on the jean—even over pockets, snaps and seams. Patterns can be matched at the seams to create an all over design.
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Designs over pockets and seams |
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Costin explains that a number of parameters such as speed, frequency, power and spot size can be tweaked to produce different degrees of degradation, detailed effects and even holes.
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Intricate Designs |
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Holes obtained from laser engraving |
Laser engraving is faster than many conventional methods used to distress jeans. Depending on the intricacy of the design, a pair of jeans can be engraved in minutes.
Not only can denim be laser engraved, but pile fabrics as well. The laser burns away the pile in selected areas leaving a permanent design that closely mimics an embossed pattern. 100% cotton corduroy and velvet can be laser engraved to produce an impressive permanent design without the use of resins.
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Laser Engraving on Pile Fabrics |
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Full width fabric can be engraved.
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Full width fabric being engraved |
In stone washing there is considerable wear and tear on the machines and water waste; however, in the laser engraving process there is no wear and tear and zero water waste.
Regardless of what you call it—scribing, engraving or etching—this new technology offers some amazing benefits, both environmental and aesthetic.
For more information, visit www.technolines.com.