Digital Imaging for Textiles
Next Generation
Daniel L. Randall, Datacolor,
Lawrenceville, NJ
Introduction
Since the introduction of spectral-based imaging systems
some five years ago, the communication of lab and production submits
between retailers and suppliers has proven to be one of the primary
economic applications of the technology. Recent advances in color
curve generation and image processing provide opportunities for additional
improvements in areas of collaborative color development, color marketing,
and color prediction in multi-step processes.
Current State of Imaging Technology and Application
The development of spectral-based imaging as a technology
began in the mid 1990s, originally as a consorted effort at
UMIST (U.K) for the purpose of achieving precise on-screen color of
textiles. The consortium, composed of Marks and Spencers, and
a number of its suppliers, were interested in the display and
printing of color on texture to an accuracy and precision not previously
achievable using conventional color profiles. Much of the work was
focused on the communication aspects of color to reduce time to market.
This is by far the application with the most economic benefit to retailers
who wish to approve colors for lab dips and production without having
to wait on shipments to arrive. There are currently a sizable number
of retailers and branded apparel companies utilizing these imaging
systems to communicate color via email with their suppliers. Many
of these firms have reported their results in a recent AATCC symposium1.
At the same time, there are other aspects of imaging technology that
have strong economical implications in other areas besides color communication.
The other applications are derived from what is considered the very
heart of such a system the spectral base for color. Contrary
to most CAD type systems, the input and output channels are spectral
channels reflectance values either measured or generated which
are, for practical purposes, largely device and illuminant independent.
This is sometimes referred to as TCITCO (True Color In- True Color
Out). The spectral data is by far the most basic characterization
of an objects color. From these spectral values, we derive all
the other higher level output forms such as colorimetric values (X,Y,Z,
L*,a*,b*,C*H*), output to the monitor in calibrated color (R,G,B),
and to the calibrated printer in C,M,Y,K.
By combining the spectral base, colorimetric functions, and an image
processor, the color imaging system is a powerful tool for color management.
Color Imaging and Spectral Curves
Spectral input from instruments is not the only method
to form this basis of color. The imaging system also relies upon a
Curve Generator. This curve generator works in much the same way as
color formula prediction in that the unknown color is synthesized
from a database of primaries according to the following general formula:
K/S? (predited) = K/S? (primary 1) + K/S? (primary 2)
+ K/S? (primary 3) . . . + K/S? (substrate)
The initial curve generators in imaging systems were
based upon generic primaries. Today the systems have been further
developed to allow application-specific primaries to be used for curve
generation thereby allowing more realistic and physically achievable
color predictions.
New Applications in Imaging
Having briefly described the aspects of imaging that
insure TCITCO, the following applications and their benefits to the
colorist will be discussed in more detail:
· Integration of spectral-based imaging and color
visualization in CAD
· Visualization of Shade Libraries, Production Archiving,
· Calibrated Printing of realistic representations of textiles
· Simulations of standard and user-defined color tolerances
· Visualization of Production Shade-Bands
· Imaging and prediction of colors in multi-step processes
Integration into the CAD World
It has been a dream for many years to provide designers with true-color
CAD systems. Such a system would encompass both the graphic and artistic
tools of design along with the spectral and colorimetric accuracy
of a color management system. As reported in a previous symposium2
designers will soon be able to design products and develop color for
these products using spectral-based color management tools and databases.
Visualization of Shade Libraries and Databases
Searching for the right color, or one that matches a new standard,
can be a tedious process. Color QC and formulation programs have traditionally
provided color search tools, however the results were usually presented
to the user in numerical format. While useful to a colorist well trained
in colorimetry, those in design and product development need to visualize
the result, and preferably in various illuminants, and on the substrate
of choice. An imaging system provides such capability by displaying
library and archive search results on the substrates required and
in order of best to worst. By using the curve generator, a designer
can visualize any number of colors in gradients, or variations in
lightness, chroma, and hue, between two colors in the library. In
this way the designer has available to view and select any of the
millions of colors within the gamut of the monitor. Of course by using
application-specific primaries for curve generation, the curves are
generated using the real-world of substrates and colorants.
Accurate Printing using Spectral-based Print Calibration
In the early days of color imaging, the emphasis was placed upon achieving
accurate monitor color. Having achieved optimum performance in this
area with current state of monitor technology, the majority of users
wanted to print the colors. This was chiefly in the areas of pre-sales,
pre-production in development for displaying color trends, a seasonal
palette, story boards, and even company shade cards for sales. The
process of printing accurate colors was very time consuming requiring
mostly trial-and-error using color profiles and shade books. However,
spectral-based printer calibrations lead to a more accurate transformation
of XYZ to CMYK for that specific printer. In this process, color grids
are printed on the substrate of choice and read using a spectrophotometer.
A matrix is calculated for the specific printer and substrate and
stored as a profile on that imaging system.
Using the 24 standard colors for the Gretag Macbeth Color Checker,
a study3 was conducted using an Epson ink-jet printer and several
types of paper stock to compare the color quality or accuracy of this
method. With this printer on both matte and glossy photo-quality papers,
the color differences were calculated between the 24 standards and
the printed colors.
For uncalibrated vs. uncalibrated printing, the dE(cielab) values
for illuminant D65/10 degree observer are shown in Tables 1-2.
Table 1.
Accuracy of Print
Calibration on 24 Color Standards – D65/10 degree
|
Photo
Paper (matte)
|
dE(max.)
|
dE(min.)
|
dE(average)
|
|
Un-Calibrated
Print
|
31.2
|
8.2
|
17.2
|
|
Calibrated
|
13.8
|
2.0
|
6.2
|
Table 2. Accuracy of Print Calibration on 24 Color Standards – D65/10 degree
|
Photo
Paper (glossy)
|
dE(max.)
|
dE(min.)
|
dE(average)
|
|
Un-Calibrated
Print
|
25.1
|
6.8
|
15.7
|
|
Calibrated
|
12.8
|
1.2
|
5.7
|
The results clearly show significant improvement in
color quality in reducing the color differences from dE 15.7 to 5.7
average. In a later study4, this method was again evaluated to determine
whether the printed colors were considered a visual match by a group
of independent subjects. A comparison was also made between the spectral-based
print calibration and a well known ICC profiling method available
from Kodak. The results are shown in Figure 1.
Figure 1. Matches considered visually acceptable using
two methods of print calibration

While there is still room for further development, many
in the industry indicate that the calibrated color is now suitable
for some pre-production applications. Substantial savings in time
and internal cost can be achieved with this method of calibration
and the amount of manual adjustment to a palette of colors is minimized.
Simulations of standard and user-defined color
tolerances
Setting realistic expectations on color quality for a particular product
can be a daunting experience for the colorist. Those with experience
may be able to feel their way through and set tolerances
usually based upon CMC, or another transformed color space such as
CIE 2000. Imaging technology makes it possible for the standard and
the tolerance limits in lightness, chroma, and hue to be easily visualized
as a grid of seven colors. In this way the colorist use the color
generator to visually test possible dE(cmc) tolerances and determine
the optimum limit for that particular product.
Visualization of Production Shade-Bands
In the retail and apparel world, the approval of production lots requires
a different color model than that of the lab dip process. Specifically,
the production lots will have variations in lightness, chroma, and
hue according to the variability in dyeing. However to the specifier,
these variations must be tightly controlled to prevent color variations
from appearing to the consumer at the point of sale. Historically
these band definitions were determined by visual inspection and a
limit was chosen from among the first dyelots to represent the allowable
variation in lightness, chroma, and hue. Subsequent dyelots must fall
between these limits to be acceptable, hence the practice of visual
shade-banding. Recent work by a larger retailer and a vertical supplier
has confirmed that shade bands can be developed visually but stored
and implemented digitally by defining in L,C,H the allowable tolerances.
This is done by visually approving or rejecting the first series of
dyelots, thereby defining numerically an L,C,H band of acceptability.
These non-symetrical bands can be applied as tolerances to incoming
dyelots, and transmitted via email to the production site for quick
approvals of lots in process.
The ability to visualize these bands is a useful tool to confirm that
the dyelot in question is within the band, and if not, to what degree
it is outside. For marginal dyelots, this allows the colorist to make
a decision without delaying production.
Prediction and visualization of color in multi-step
processes
Many textiles undergo finishing processes that usually affect the
color and appearance. A physical process such as napping will change
the substrate structure which affects the appearance and consequently
the color. The same is true for yarn dyed knits and wovens. Some finishes
are chemical based and cause color change without causing structural
changes. These process steps are monitored for color and in most cases
it is the experience of the dyer and colorist that must be called
upon to make best estimates of these color changes.
By using new imaging tools, a technique is emerging that looks promising
in color control in that by using the curve generator it is possible
to simulate the finish color based upon historical datasets. In one
example, a polyester knit is piece dyed, then processed to produce
a very textured napped surface. The manufacturer must match the standard
color in finished form, but pass approval on lab dyeings of the unfinished
knitted polyester. Additionally, the dyer must be able to produce
a formula that will produce the desired finished color by assessing
the color of the unfinished fabric. Ideally, the mill would have reliable
targets or standards representing each process step. While this is
workable on repeat shades, it is guesswork and experience for new
colors. Consequently this process could lead to mismatches due to
the lack of accurate color matching during these steps.
The prediction process must work in either direction. For a known
finished color, the unfinished color may be predicted, and vice versa.
A knowledge base is required since this process has been found to
be multi-dimensional and non-linear. An analysis of 12 knowns resulted
in the following color changes when comparing the unfinished (standard)
to the finished color. In this case the changes were physical, not
chemically induced.
Table 3. Color Change due to finishing in dE(cmc 2:1)
on 12 standard colors (D65/10)

The technique for predicting the color change relies
upon two powerful functions within the imaging system. One, as mentioned
earlier, is the color generator, or curve generator. Colors may be
generated on demand based upon generic or user-defined primaries.
Secondly, there must be one or more functions to describe the relationship(s)
that exist between the samples representing the various processing
steps. The simplest model, and one we are currently pursuing, is to
characterize the relationship between the substrates using their respective
images as captured by a scanner or camera. This is essentially a gray-scale
or non-chromatic function. Next, the colorimetric relationship is
applied as determined by measurements with a spectrophotometer. By
combining the substrate images and their spectral properties it is
possible to model the relationship.
At the time of this printing initial results on a small database of
samples can be reported and it is expected that additional test samples
will be included at the time of the presentation.
It was noted immediately that the color changes were along all 3 color
dimensions, and that they were not consistent, or linear. There does
however appear to be more consistency among samples of similar chroma
and hue. This leads to a prediction model based upon a colorimetric
search for the closest match in the database of known, followed by
application of the image prediction method as described above.
By using the above 12 pairs, the concept was tested for several colors
that were in similar groups such as the Brick Red with Burgundy, Sky
Blue with Wisteria, and Deep Forest with Mineral Green. The results
of these predictions are given in Table 4 below:
Table 4. Predicted finished color vs. actual measured
color

As expected, the results on predictions using Brick
Red and Burgundy were better since they are the most similar in L*,C*,
and H*. Considering that the finishing changes the color by more than
2 units dE(cmc) the prediction to within 0.7 dE is approaching the
acceptable level. It is estimated that on new colors, if the database
finds a match to within 5 units dE(cmc) then the prediction of finished
(or unfinished) color will be within 0.5 dE(cmc). Additional samples
are forthcoming to better determine the accuracy level of this method.
Suffice it to say that these results are overall encouraging and with
further development, provide another method for dyemills to predict
color targets for processing steps.
Conclusions
Color imaging technology has evolved into a very functional
toolkit for the colorist working in retail, manufacturing, or dyeing
and finishing. The availability of a curve generator and image processing
functions provide capabilities that extend beyond the world of color
communication and color approvals. With this brief introduction it
is clear that there are significant benefits to be realized, and additional
application testing is needed to fully achieve results of economic
importance.
References
1. Book of papers, AATCC Symposium "Color Innovations
2002, Concepts, Communication, and Control", June 3-4, Raleigh,
NC.
2. Ibid
3. Schuman, Les, "A Comparison of Calibrated and Uncalibrated
Printing Using the Colorite IMProof Print Calibration",
October 5, 2000
4. Schuman, Les, "Accuracy in Color Printing using Colorite,
Kodak Color Profiling CME, and PhotoCal RGB print profiling",
August 13,2001
The author wishes to acknowledge and thank Malden
Mills of Lawrence, MA for color samples for multi-step processes.