Design Innovation and New Technologies

By Dr. Sanjay Gupta

Textiles have always played a central role in the evolution of human culture by being at the forefront of both technological and artistic development. Weaving was in fact the first industry to be fully mechanized; it was the catalyst to the Industrial Revolution and even today the possibilities continue to be created in hitherto undreamed areas as a consequence of the innovative technologies. The new technologies coupled with diversity of production techniques and plurality of styles and patterns that make up contemporary designer's vocabulary are fuelling Design Innovation.

Textile design today is influenced, on the one hand by major, broad-based industrial research projects into new fiber technologies for sportswear and industrial textiles, and automation and flexible manufacturing systems; and on the other hand by the constantly evolving consumer lifestyles.

This paper looks at the dramatic effect that new technologies are having on textiles, illustrating the current advances awhile adopting a forward-looking approach. People are living longer and spending more time on leisure activities. Added to that is the growing market for corporate-wear – which, in some cases, is becoming increasingly fashion-oriented.

Industrial materials and techniques previously developed for completely different purposes are being utilized and expanded by textile artists and designers. The continuing concern for the environment claims the interest of those working with protective, recycled and responsive materials. Performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the international textile and clothing industry. Not so long back it was the Technical textiles that were known for their performance and functionality whilst traditional textiles for their aesthetics! This distinction is no longer relevant. The two sectors have converged and increasingly, the so-called high-tech technical fabrics and apparel designed for high performance wears are crossing over the boundary into everyday fashion. It started with outdoor walking clothes and is moving more and more into the high street. Retailers are trying to distinguish their products from others, and to give a value-added feature to their fashions by means of technical fibers and finishes.

Typically, such specialty textiles use some specific technologies in addition to the conventional technologies so that the product would add value to a specific ‘attribute' or function and/or effect. For example, in design of worsted black formal wear suiting fabric, which has a very deep black shade, the specific attribute is ‘blackness'. If in the same fabric, hollow fiber is used to get a lighter fabric, the fiber will also add to the warmth and two additional attributes of ‘lightness and warmth' get added. There are many such attributes, which can be broadly classified as under:

1. Aesthetic Effects (Visual)
    (Fiber blends, mélange effect, fancy yarns, surface treatments, woven textures,     color development, dye-ability, patterns, luster etc.)

2. Aesthetic Effects (Sensory)
   (Friction/ smoothness, bending, compression, fragrant etc.)

3. Wearing Comfort
   (Weight, stretch, static charge dissipation/ reduction of clinging, slip-ability etc.)

4. Comfort - Micro-climate control
   (Warmth, coolness, wicking of sweat, reduction of next-to-skin humidity &    stickiness, breathable waterproofing etc.)

5. Easy care
   (Dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance/ recovery, easy wash, easy dry, anti    pilling, anti soil, moth proofing, anti bacterial)

6. Garment formability
   (Formability, sew-ability, non fraying, non-deforming etc.)

7. Protective aspects
   (Hygienic- anti bacterial, deodorizing; Safety – anti UV, healing, flame retardant;    Environmental friendliness & non-toxic etc.)

These attributes are however seldom used alone. The need in the professional clothing market is for complete systems to produce the required level of comfort, protection, care and looks. Designers today are working on fashionable collections containing complete system of technical attributes, from inner layers to outer. That's the way forward for high-value fashion fabrics.

Highlights of some recent innovations are given below under each attribute

Aesthetic Effects (Visual)

Schoeller of Switzerland is a prime example of a company that keeps a competitive edge by specializing in finishes and blends with a high-tech focus. Innovations for summer 2005 include ultra-light wind protection with matt sheen effects, bi-colour, high-sheen satins and color mixes. Many current Schoeller fabrics combine a mixture of these features, for example semi-transparent fabrics, bonded aluminums with metal sparkling effects in 3D structures, nano-sphere finishes or mirror and glow-in-the-dark effects. Metallics are used extensively in European collections for next year, from silver to metallic and aluminum to gold-vaporized fabrics.

Luminex is a new kind of fabric that glows, literally. It's not shiny, it's not glow-in- the dark; it actually gives off its own light. Designers took tiny, flexible optical fibers developed for high-energy physics experiments and wove them into ordinary fabric. Power comes from an ordinary battery sewn into the cloth. Luminex is being used in stage costumes, handbags and curtains as well as clothing. The makers are even talking about adding smart chips to the fabric that could make it glow in flashing patterns. Look for a line of silver Luminex pillows from DKNY next year.

Luminex garments

Fluorescent and reflective yarns are also there. The fluorescent yarn emits light so that it glows in the dark. Reflective yarn is constructed using crystals embedded into its structure. The light falling on the crystals produces the reflection. The intended garment application is for club/night wear.

Tintoria di Quaregna s.r.l. has produced a range of finishes that give yarns unique performance qualities. "Stardust®" is a yarn finish, which gives the yarn a bright "twinkling" finished effect. The yarn's twinkling effect is better seen under bright lights, as when in the sun or under halogen lighting. This finishing effect can be applied to almost any yarn and can be washed away easily using a delicate washing programme.

Aesthetic Effects (Sensory)

Many technologies are available today that tend to soothe human senses. One of the most important technology in this area is micro-encapsulation. Microencapsulated fabrics are among the latest generation of fabrics known as intelligent fabrics, taking into account the functions they perform i.e. cosmetic, with a gradual release of active or volatile micro-capsules for cosmetic, therapeutic, energy-boosting, stress-busting, moisturizing or deodorizing, and, climatic fabrics with phase change microcapsules which are heat-regulating.

Microencapsulation is a simple process consisting of encapsulating liquid or solid substances in sealed micro spheres. These micro spheres which vary in size between 0.5 and 2000 microns, form a suspension of tiny droplets surrounded by a thin polymeric wall protecting the active agent before it is released. This wall or membrane is made by emulsion or dispersion of a natural or synthetic polymer in a carrier liquid. These microcapsules gradually release active agents by simple mechanical rubbing which ruptures the membrane.

Micro-encapsulation was introduced by fabric producers such as Welbeck (who were pioneers in the field) beginning with perfumery. There are a variety of fields of application: underwear and accessories (gloves, socks, hats, etc.) ready-to-wear, sportswear and casual wear, footwear, bedding (mattresses, eiderdowns, blankets, pillows etc.). Micro-encapsulation is also a feature of Penn Elastic's most advanced fabrics. Body-care encapsulation systems with Lycra, for freshness, moisturising and massaging are designed to persuade the wearer that they are receiving a beauty treatment as they wear it. Bayscent, from Bayer, brings micro-encapsulation of fragrances to many Penn fabrics. Riedel + Tietz are specialists in original aromatic fabrics: lilac, jasmine, lavender, lily of the valley, narcissus, peppermint, rose, violet, eucalyptus, camomile, banana, lemon, apple, vanilla, chocolate, pineapple, coconut…But also grilled meat, coffee, pudding, butter, gingerbread, mulled wine, marzipan, almond, nougat, petrol, incense, camp fires!!!!

Fragrant Lingerie

Micro-encapsulation is also used in thermo-chromic fabrics i.e. Fabrics (woven or knitted) with colors which change, appear or disappear under the effect of variations in temperature. The fabrics themselves are not thermo-chromic, but the colourings are thermo-chromic and photo-chromic substances and liquid crystals are often microencapsulated, particularly for textile media. Thermo-chrome fabrics certainly aren't new, and the fact they have resurfaced today is spurred on by technological developments and in particular, by the success of micro-encapsulation. For the time being, their uses are relatively limited on the fashion market, restricted to the lingerie and swimwear sectors as well as to industrial clothing (protective and safety clothes).

Thermochromic T-Shirts

Sensory effects are not just limited to specialised fibers and finishes. The seam-less structure of whole-garment making technologies using 3D weaving or knitting technology offers great new sensorial experience. An example is provided by the Wholegarment® machines produced by Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd, which is one of the leading manufacturers of computerized whole glove and whole garment flatbed knitting machines. Their machines are capable of imparting a range of open and close structures, 3D effects and contrasting surfaces, to whole garments. The range includes entire garments including scarves, hats, jumpers, dresses, skirts, cardigans, tights, legwarmers and socks. If one combines those new developments in yarn with 3D knitting it is possible to make exciting new textiles for garments.

Whole-garment by Shima Seiki

Comfort

Fleeces were among the first fabrics to benefit from high-quality, high-tech approaches. Malden Mill's Polarfleece® is the original synthetic fleece fabric that forever changed the way the world dresses for cold weather. This fabric is soft, comfortable, provides warmth without weight, is quick drying and durable for long-lasting good looks. Its high breathability provides comfort in all activities and does not restrict the movement of moisture vapors.

Technical fabric manufacturers such as Heathcoat of UK produce extreme-weather fleeces, which are used by the military, for outdoor workwear and also for recreational sports. Fleeces such as Polartec Wind Pro, Thermal Pro and Polartec 200 are also appearing in sports and leisurewear departments and Menswear retailers, who are marketing their extra qualities to consumers. Many of the fabrics, like Thermal Pro, are increasingly being customised, with different finishes available, such as water repellence. Complete moisture-management systems can be designed "au choix".

Polar fleece

The latest on the scene is Polartec's Heat Technology that provides “Warmth on Demand®" during stop-and-go activities. Powered by rechargeable lithium ion batteries, Polartec Heat panels deliver three modes of user-adjustable warmth. These panels are very thin, lightweight, and flexible, and are designed not to interfere with a garment's function. They are also durable and machine washable. By providing warmth only when needed, this heating breakthrough reduces the need to add or subtract layers of clothing as weather or activity levels change. The panels are activated by the user and with a controller. When resting after a period of high exertion, the user turns the panels on. When resuming activity, the user turns them off, as the body's increased activity level provides the necessary warmth to maintain core temperature.

Jacket incorporating Polartec's Warmth on Demand®

Phase change micro-encapsulation or OUTLAST technology offers another way of maintaining body heat. The chemist introduces a paraffin hydrocarbon-based phase change material, as it is known, into plastic shells. In contrast to microcapsules destined for cosmetic textiles where the membrane must be flexible enough for gradual release of the product, the shells used for Outlast are hard; to protect the paraffin based substance from external elements. Approximately 1,000 microcapsules can fit on a single pinhead. The PCM (phase change material) is ultra-sensitive to temperature variations. Below 37° the PCM remains in its solid state. Above this temperature it turns to liquid storing surplus body heat. It can then change state an unlimited number of times. When it solidifies again, the PCM releases body heat stored in the plastic shells and distributes it evenly around the body. This re-heating effect can last several hours but it is necessary to regularly activate phase changes passing through periods of re-heating (more or less intensive activities) and cooling. Fabrics containing PCM microcapsules are capable of storing at least 10 times more heat than untreated products.

PCM microcapsules

A new range of yarn called "Extended Function" consisting of Polycolon® allows the body to stay drier for longer periods under heavy body perspiration. Polycolon® yarns are about 40 per cent lighter than cotton, and perform by quickly conducting moisture to the absorbent surface layers from where it gets evaporated.

Easy care

Teflon and similar treatments are used both as a stain-repellent and stain-release mechanism, prolonging the life of a garment and making it more saleable. Translated into the fashion arena, Teflon on suiting fabrics is becoming a selling point, found at all levels of the market, with the increased cost apparently easily absorbed by the end users and also recognized on swing tickets. DuPont's Teflon® can now also be applied to all types of yarn. The coating is invisible, it does not affect the yarn visually or physically, is breathable and has easy care properties.

Nanotechnology is, however the new buzzword for the moment in almost all industries. Schoeller has a NanoSphere finish that is water-, dirt- and stain-repellent and can be applied to a diverse range of fabrics, giving an extra dimension to fashion fabrics. Water simply runs off the nano-surface of clothing nor can staining substances such as ketchup, honey, coffee or red wine take hold. And even if they fail to run off of their own accord, the stain can easily be rinsed off under running water. The first products from top garment manufacturers as Berghaus, Bugatti, Hugo Boss, Mammut or Polo Ralph Lauren are being presented at the current fairs.

A new elastic fiber with Lycra brand, T-400™ has revolutionized the comfort, hand, stretch and recovery, wrinkle-resistance, wash ability and care of contemporary fabrics. This includes synthetic woven, denims, lightweight cotton, wool and poly/cottons. As shown in the photos below, T400 has uniform crimp, resulting in knitwear with a clean, smooth appearance. Garments have clear stitch definition and a beautifully soft handle versus knits made with textured yarns.

T-400 has a uniform crimp as against a normally textured yarn.

Wash effects on T-400 denim jeans

Garments with T400 keep their shape, even after repeated washing and wearing. Sweaters resist bagging at the elbows so they look new and feel great. But it is really the denim jeans that provide the best opportunity for use of T400. Since T-400™ is chlorine resistant it can withstand a variety of bleaching and washing conditions that are not typically used on stretch denim. The latest treatments, such as antique finishes, whisker washing and sandblasting can be applied to garments with excellent results. What's more, it can even give a more tailored look as the jeans hold a crease wash after wash. Jeans containing this fiber are among the most comfortable as T-400™ provides a subtle stretch for comfort and ease of movement. Garments not only fit well, but retain their shape wear after wear.

Garmenting process is also eased as fabrics with T-400™ have minimum shrinkage thereby simplifying the cutting and sewing process. Garments stay true to their original size for enhanced consumer satisfaction.

Protective aspects

 The protective aspects of textiles have provided the most fertile ground for innovative developments. While the developments have focused on environmental protection and personal hygiene, it is the medical and therapeutic aspects, which have really caught the fancy of lifestyle product manufacturers.

The wide scope for encapsulation in fabrics has allowed moisturizers, therapeutic oils such as Aloe Vera, or even insecticides for tropical climates to be incorporated into fabrics. Buzz Off, in the US , is a chemical treatment to prevent mosquito bites, originally a military invention that is now being sold worldwide for cotton fabrics destined for holiday clothing. Made from permethrin, a man-made form of the all-natural insect repellent derived from the chrysanthemum plant. Through a patent-pending process, Buzz Off insect shield apparel by Orvis provides protection from biting insects for the useful life of your clothes.

Meanwhile, encapsulation and medical research moves on, centered around the delivery of medicines and drug treatments through clothing, perhaps overnight, to patients.

Antimicrobial treatments began as useful adjuncts to measures to cut down MRSA, the pervasive and pernicious hospital super-infection. Eschler, for instance, is producing a range of Trevira Bioactive fabrics for use in the medical field. Its potential for use in sportswear, underwear and workwear was soon recognised and now it is becoming a common treatment for fashion clothing. Trevira Bioactive was recently made effective for socks, a prime target that has been difficult to achieve, and there is great interest in this area. Underwear is branded at point of sale with labels such as Silfresh, Trevira's Bioactive, or Amicor, as it has been found that customers recognise and value such quality marks. Technical yarns such as Meryl Skinlife for bacteriostatic qualities permanently contain the active substance in the polymeric matrix.

Trevira Bioactive garments for hospitals

Sanitized® is a yarn which has an antibacterial effect. Its development was encouraged by the difficulty of eliminating bacteria from clothing. Sanitized® works by blocking the cell walls of the bacteria and cause them to starve, keeping the garment fresh and hygienic. Lenzing Fibres has launched a new lyocell microfibre based on Lenzing Low Fibrillation technology, allowing the ultra-fine fabrics to be processed like conventional cellulose fabrics, producing fine, soft fabrics with low allergic properties.

Ingeo™ fiber (made by Cargil Dow out of corn – polylactide fiber) combines the qualities of natural and synthetic fibers in a new way. Ingeo fiber is naturally flame retardant and has good moisture management characteristics. This means that Ingeo fiber is ideally suited to fabrics from fashion to furnishings. It can produce a whole unique new family of compostable products without compromising performance. Imagine a disposable diaper that is also completely biodegradable so that no waste is left to contaminate the earth. Already, l ight, hypoallergenic duvet and other bed products made of this worlds first man-made fiber from 100% annually renewable resource are being offered in the market.

Ingeo hypoallergenic bed products

Schoeller's S-Shield® is a high-performance worsted spun yarn, which protects the body against electronic radiation by incorporating very fine stainless steel fibres in the range of 3-50 per cent, depending on application, with wool, polyester, aramid, viscose or polyamide.

Incorporation or metallic fibers in textiles have other medical and therapeutic purposes. The use of silver for medical and therapeutic purposes has been known about for many years, ever since the "magic health properties" of silver were discovered. Modern medicine has found silver to be a very effective, natural anti microbial element when used in wound dressings, bandages, underwear and apparel textile materials. The appropriate use of silver properties in textile structures provides also an opportunity for obtaining suitable thermal conditions. Silver also possesses electro-conductive and electrostatic properties. Using the above-mentioned silver properties in textiles is of interest to many fibre, yarn and textile producers. Yarns with silver content can be produced either as a silver-core spun or with pure silver coatings.

Qoperfina® Copper yarn combines the finest combed organic cotton with pure and natural Angelina copper staple fiber, an intimate blend yielding an incredibly soft, durable and healthy fabric with both fashion and therapeutic properties. This high-tech performance is suitable for knit and woven applications, including apparel, intimate wear, socks, home textiles and furnishings, bed and bath.

Copper filament containing yarn

Cellulose is a polymeric derivative of sugar, which when allowed to react with certain compounds gives substituted celluloses that then contain substituents with chelating reactivity that bond Cu.  When this fiber is placed in contact with the skin, amino acids and other chelating agents in the Stratum corneum form Cu complexes by ligand exchange and these complexes are absorbed through the skin, producing many useful pharmacological effects as a result. These include, but are not limited to, relief from rheumatism, arthritis and stress. Copper containing fibers can protect the human body from harmful electromagnetic frequencies and facilitate the recovery from harmful electromagnetic radiation.

Deodorising is another area of interest. Developments include "Smellkiller®" fibers that can get rid of any unpleasant odours such as smoke, oily smell as well as perspiration. Light is used to stimulate the yarn by triggering a photo-catalytic reaction to release the deodorising material in the fibre. It is claimed that a small amount of light such as a 30W bulb can stimulate the yarn to absorb almost any unpleasant odours.

Conclusion

These are just a few of the possibilities that new emerging technologies are opening for innovative textile design. The barrier that kept traditional and technical textiles separated is broken and convergence is underway. That's the way forward for high-value fashion fabrics.

Dr. Sanjay Gupta,

National Institute of Fashion Technology,

Hauz Khas, New Delhi – 110016. India

Email – sgupta34@hotmail.com

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