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ASTM D1366 Sewn Products Automation Committee
Standards for apparel and sewn products automation, and electronic data exchange.
In case you have not noticed, the apparel and sewn products industry is changing. Many years ago, AAMA's Apparel Research Committee (ARC) started an active process of developing voluntary standards for apparel and sewn products automation. This work has passed through ANSI managed by the AAMA/ARC to the ASTM (originally known as the American Society for Testing and Materials) supported by AAMA/ARC to the current work of ASTM International in communication with AAFA's Enterprise Competitiveness Council (ECC).
With strong support of an international group of suppliers, primarily CAD, plotter and cutter producers, and the loyal support of a few end users, the process continues in the ASTM Committee: D1366 Sewn Products Automation. In the years the process has been a part of the ASTM, four standards have been produced:
• Standard Practice for Formatting Cutting Data to Drive Numerically Controlled Fabric Cutting Machines
• Standard Practice for Sewn Products Pattern Data Interchange-Data Format
• Standard Practice for Data Exchange Format for Sewn Product Plotting Devices
• Terminology for Sewn Products Automation
These are recognized international standards and are available from ASTM. Current projects include developing voluntary standards for marker data exchange, improving pattern data exchange, improving N. C. cutter data exchange, body measurement and scanning data exchange, and body scanner system evaluations.
Who needs standards anyway? Don't they already exist? What can I do?
Standards are required for any business that has relationships with other companies; efficient communication without them is impossible. Have you ever asked the sales person selling a computerized marking and grading system that the one your contractors own if his system can use the same files as the system you own and the contractors' systems? The first response is, “No problem”, followed by the technical staff with, “Not exactly”. A standard file format would eliminate this confusion. The need for data transfer standards is even greater now due to our global marketplace, international subcontracting, full package production implications, company mergers, and the elimination of quotas.
In 2000, ASTM began establishing, validating, and publishing Sewn Products Automation standards. The D1366 subcommittee for Sewn Products Automation was established with ARC member Jim Hiegel as the chairman. ASTM's role is to provide organization and structure for the standard-setting process. Volunteers, both suppliers and users, determine what standards should be created. ASTM manages the process, certifies and distributes the approved standards. Their use is voluntary unless required by users and suppliers.
Member companies, especially the users of CAD and other automation systems, are very active participants in D1366 to create the incentive for CAD and other suppliers to embrace the need for creating and improving standards. The work of this committee will only continue with supplier and user support and participation.
ASTM meetings
The ASTM D1366 subcommittee meets as a part of the ASTM D13 committee on Textiles at its semi-annual meetings. This is an opportunity for sewn products users and suppliers to take an active role in establishing needed standards. This meeting is open to non-ASTM members and is not a high tech session; representatives from the sewn products industry small and large are necessary to make the industry aware of their needs for standards. The cost to participate is a voluntary $25 refreshment fee and your own travel expenses. At a higher level, personal membership in the ASTM is $75 per year which includes a new yearly standards volume.
The bi-annual meeting of the Sewn Products Automation committee is scheduled as a part of ASTM Committee Week, March 14-15, 2005, in Philadelphia. It is an open meeting and individuals are invited to attend parts or all of the meeting. If you are interested in attending, advance information is available online at www.astm.org, or through the committee chairman, Jim Hiegel, at 972.943.8041. The next meeting will be in Dallas, TX October 16-19.
ASTM D1366 Sewn Products Automation Scope: To implement the Scope of D13 as it applies to the automation of processes for sewn products from concept and design to implementation, manufacturing, and distribution of finished goods. (Other apparel related subcommittees are D13.54 Subassemblies, D13.55 Body Measurement for Apparel Sizing, D13 61 Apparel.)
ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles Scope : The promotion of knowledge of textiles, and the development of standards including specifications, test methods, terminology, classification, tolerances, and practices for textiles and related materials.
ASTM Process: The standard-setting process is well defined in the ASTM structure. The ASTM is the sponsoring body for all parts of the process from the selection of desired standard, creation of drafts, approval, publishing and maintaining. Task groups created by the subcommittee do the primary technical work. Members of the task groups do not have to be ASTM members or members of any other organization. Ongoing work can be accomplished by the task groups at meetings independent of the ASTM meetings and by means not requiring on-site attendance by all members.
After a task group reaches a consensus agreement on a standard, it is balloted to members of the D1366 subcommittee. Agreement must be by consensus, i.e., one negative vote for valid reasons will stop the process. If approved, it is then balloted by the entire D13 committee using the same process. In the balloting process only dues paying members of the ASTM will vote. Membership is open to all with the only requirement that you participate in the voting process and pay your $75 annual dues.
Details of ASTM D1366 standards work:
Existing standards:
D6673-04 Standard Practice for Sewn Products Pattern Data Interchange-Data Format
Originally developed by the AAMA; it is based upon the DXF file format and has been revised twice to address improvements recommended as vendors implement the translation programs.
It provided standards allowing pattern data to be transferred among systems of any supplier who implements a standard translator.
D6959-03 Standard Practice for Data Exchange Format for Sewn Product Plotting Devices
This governs the files that are used to plot patterns, markers, etc. on all types of plotters generally used in the sewn products industry. When CAD companies and plotter companies implement standard translators, plot files can be transferred and used independent of the specific source or plotter.
D6672-01 Standard Practice for Formatting Cutting Data to Drive Numerically Controlled Fabric Cutting Machines
The existing Practice D6672 for Formatting Cutting Data to Drive Numerically Controlled Fabric Cutting Machines is basically unchanged from the initial AAMA/ ANSI standard of over 10 years ago and is being revised.
Work in progress:
WK596 Practice for Sewn Products Marker Data Interchange
This will be written independent of program language but is expected to be implemented initially in XML. It will allow transfer of marker data at most stages among systems of any supplier who implements a standard translator.
WK5703 Standard Practice for Body Measurement Exchange--Used for Apparel Sizing
This standard addresses the transfer of body measurements used in apparel among systems. It does not define the measurement system which is being addressed by the ASTM D1355 committee.
International Application of the Standards
ASTM D1366 is working to establish its standards as THE international standards for Sewn Products Automation. We have reviewed ISO and other international standards to identify any conflicts, and the committee membership has international representation. Approved standards are published and available from ASTM for a fee. See www.astm.org for details.
Note: The $75 cost of an annual membership, which includes one free standards book on CD, may be less costly than buying the standards you need.
Article submitted by Dr. Jim Hiegel, ASTM Sewn Products Automation Chairman, Keller Graduate School of Management of DeVry University
February 2005